The best of the Big Island in Hawaii
I will never forget the smell of plumerias after going to the Big Island! As soon as you get off the plane, the lovely smell washes over you. The warm rays caressed my face as the gentle trade winds blew. At that moment I knew I had found paradise.
My mom is originally from Oahu but moved to the Big Island in 1996. I have been visiting her regularly for the last thirteen years. In that time I have learned a lot about the Big Island. I know where to look for lava, where to look for black sand beaches, where to find turtles, and how to find magical green sand. In this article, I will outline the best features Big Island has to offer.
Get there
The best way to travel to the Big Island is by plane. There are people who sail, sail and even swim to the Big Island, but I recommend flying to either Hilo or Kona. There are a few airlines that I recommend when flying to Hawaii and two in particular that I would stay away from at all costs. Hawaiian Airlines was established in 1929 and is the oldest airline flying to and from Hawaii. They rely on their flight history, reputation, and loyal customers to stay in business. Hawaiian Airlines is generally on time and provides sufficient customer service. Alaska Airlines has always treated me very well. They fly direct to Kona and Hilo from several cities on the US West Coast, have much more legroom, and best of all, offer a complimentary glass of wine, beer, or Mai Tai before landing, something that has become rare on domestic flights. If you’re flying from Australia or New Zealand, Quantas and Air New Zealand have a good reputation. If you’re on a tight budget, look to Jetstar. Please note that Jetstar is a pay-as-you-go airline. Flights are so cheap because you have to pay for anything extra (ie blanket, soft drinks, headphones, pillows, food, and basically anything but the bathroom). If you cannot fly directly to Hilo or Kona, you will most likely have to fly to Honolulu and will need to transfer to an inter-island flight. When you get off your plane, you’ll need to follow the signs to the inter-island terminal (Use the wiki wiki bus! It’ll save you a twenty-minute walk in 80% humidity that you’re not used to yet). The airline I recommend for inter-island travel is Mokulele. They have impeccable customer service, their flights are always on time, and they even provide complimentary juice on short flights.
IMPORTANT: When you book your initial flight, make sure you never fly United. For inter-island flights, never fly Aloha Air. These two companies have caused me the most problems of all the airlines I have flown with around the world. Terrible customer service, flights are often delayed or cancelled, and they both charge for checked baggage. DO NOT FLY THESE TWO AIRLINES!
Accommodation
There are plenty of hotels around Kona and Hilo, but I recommend looking for homestays and vacation rentals online. These are usually private listings from locals who want to rent their home during certain times of the year. They tend to cost less than hotels and you can save by cooking at home. If you’re backpacking, there are hostels in Hilo, Kona, and Volcano. The Holo Holo Inn is the best bang for your buck in Volcano. Sleeping beds start at $17. Anyway, let’s get to what there is to see on the Big Island!
Volcano National Park
Volcano National Park is located 30 miles west of Hilo on Highway 11. This is one of the few places in the world where you can see a volcano erupting. In 1983, the Kilauea volcano erupted and hasn’t stopped since. That’s 16 years of continuous lava flow! A more recent surge can be seen in the park in Halemaumau Crater. Plumes of sulfur smoke rise up to 1,000 feet into the air and the glow of lava can be seen from the famous Jagger Museum. Visitors can also drive down the chain of craters, through historic lava from previous eruptions, to where the lava meets the ocean. Along the way, visitors can walk through the Thurston Lava Tube, a 100m tunnel left behind by lava traveling underground. Note: Sometimes the lava flow changes direction, creating an extremely long walk to see the flow into the ocean from the park. If this is the case, ask a park ranger to point you in the direction of the Kalapana stream, which is back down the road to Hilo.
Punalu’u
30 miles further down the road from Volcan National Park is a black sand beach called Punalu’u (there are signs that take you off the road 1 mile). I love this beach! I don’t really recommend it for swimming or snorkeling, it’s just beautiful. When you get there, park your car, kick off your shoes and walk to the other end of the beach. Bring your slippers (sandals or flip flops) as the black sand can get very hot depending on the time of day. To your right you will see local children playing in the water and waves crashing on the reef. To your left is a small trading post selling water, snacks, and souvenirs. Make sure you walk to the end of the beach! This is where the Honu (turtles) rest. Note: they are more likely to be there in the morning hours. If you feel like taking a dip, watch out for the rocks, as the beach isn’t just sand in the water. If you have small children, keep an eye on them because there is a moderate hangover. To rinse off when you’re done, there’s a freshwater spring at the other end of the beach. The water is cold!
south point
Continuing to South Point, you will pass through a small town called Na’alehu. You have to stop at two places here. First is the Punalu’u Bakery. They have amazing pastries, including Malasadas, a traditional Hawaiian donut that is to die for. Across the street (near the field, public restrooms, and basketball court) is the Na’alehu Lunch Shop. They have ono grinds (good food), especially the fish burger if it’s available. After you’ve packed lunch, continue about 5 miles down the road and turn at the sign for South Point (12 miles off the road). Drive approx 12 miles and take an unmarked right as soon as the road flattens out and follow to the end. This is the southernmost point in the United States. It really is a magical place there. Standing on the edge of America and literally being able to jump off of it. I do when I go there. It is about 30 feet. jump into the ocean It seems superficial, but I assure you that it is not. Probably about 30 feet deep. I don’t recommend doing this unless there are other people jumping as the ladder is very old and may not work anymore by the time you get there. After feeling the thrill of jumping off the cliff, head back to the road you turned off on and turn right. About a mile or two down the road there is another exit (also unmarked, get used to this) where you can park. This is the entrance to the path that leads to the magical green sand beach. If you have four-wheel drive, you can continue driving. If not, this is the end of the road for the car and you have to walk. Continue towards the ocean. Just as you reach the shore, turn left onto a very, very bumpy road. Continue this way for about two miles until you reach the top of a very steep embankment. Park here and walk to the beach. Note: For walkers, be sure to bring plenty of sunscreen, water, and sunglasses. This beach is ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Enjoy!
Kailua Kona
On the way to Kona you will see a lot of lava. There are few places worth seeing along the way. At Kealakekua Bay, there is a monument to Captain Cook. This is the place where the Hawaiians decided that Captain Cook was not welcome and murdered him. I highly recommend renting kayaks and paddling around this bay. On the far side, where the monument is, the snorkeling is extraordinary! If you are lucky, the Nia (dolphins) will play in the bay and you will be able to see them show off.
Another great place to dive before arriving in Kona is Honaunau National Park. There is a fee to enter this park, so have cash with you.
Kailua-Kona is the resort town on the Big Island. If you are looking for nightlife, this is the city you will want to go to. Actually, it would be Honolulu, but since it’s on another island, Kona will do. This is a good place to stop and eat, shop, use the restroom, etc. I would park a few streets further up Alii Dr., then walk there as parking is hard to find without paying.
Hapuna State Park
Hapuna State Park is a beautiful white sand beach about 30 miles north of Kona. If you and your family want a nice beach to spend the day, this would be the option. The only drawback would be the crowd. It is a tourist beach and is usually very crowded (for the Big Island). Bring sunscreen and water. There are rental shops that rent boogie boards, towels, and snorkel gear. This place is not very good for boogie boarding or snorkeling so I don’t recommend renting here. Snorkeling will seem boring compared to Honaunau and Kealakekua Bay.
Waipio Valley
I left Waipio Valley for last. This place is amazing! From Hapuna State Park, it’s about a thirty minute drive to Waipio through the town of Waimea and Honoka’a. Most people can’t see what the Waipio Valley has to offer because two-wheel drive vehicles are prohibited from driving on the road. It’s about a two mile hike which isn’t too bad, but the hike is strenuous to say the least. As you near the bottom of the hill as you enter, turn right and continue until you reach the ocean. Waipio is where the 1995 movie Waterworld ended. The valley itself has sheer cliffs carved out by millions of years of erosion. At the bottom of the valley a waterfall plummets towards the Taro fields. The river meanders through the valley and empties directly into the ocean. The black sand beach is about a mile long and has horses grazing up and down the beach. Most of the land in the valley is private and due to the geography of the land, horses are allowed to roam freely. You must not feed the horses! And be careful because they are known to buck. Waipio is also known for being a great camping and surfing spot.
There is more to see on the Big Island than I have described. These are just some of the highlights of the Big Island. One of my favorite things to do is explore the island. I encourage anyone who spends time there to explore and see what the island reveals to you. You will be surprised what you will find. Safe travels.